Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Report from ... Toronto Wine And Cheese Show – April 4, 2008

This year’s Wine and Cheese Show (held April 4-6 at the International Centre) was a bizarre mix of big and small, wineries and breweries, agents and importers. New York, New Zealand and South Africa had a large presence, while the usual giants of the show like California, Australia and France had tiny one-man booths that had about 4 wines for tasting at each. There also seemed to be a scattershot mix of exhibitors; some you knew why they were there: Fielding, Black Prince, Mountain Road (wineries), Empire Cheese, Big Rock Brewery; others like Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool and others seemed very out of place. It was as if organizers wanted to be everything to everybody and instead did nobody any favours. Many exhibitors that I talked with, who had been there in the past, said the show had “shrunk” in size and has “lost focus”; others lamented the lack of advertising of the show. I found this most surprising when I thought about it; for a show that was celebrating its 25th Anniversary – you’d think they would have plastered the city with “Guess who’s turning 25” advertisements; but this year there was very little “show” about the show. This writer in particular emailed for details and information about the show 2 months in advance, but my emails went unanswered until a week before the show.

But despite all that there were some major highlights to draw your attention to – seems I have a knack for digging up a few at each show I attend.

New Winery …
By now you’ve heard of Prince Edward County and know it’s Ontario’s newest Designated Viticultural Area – what you may not be aware of is that more and more wineries are opening up in the area. One of those scheduled to open in 2009 is Harwood Estate Vineyards – whose wine is currently sold through Black Prince Winery. This small property grows Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and St. Laurent and is hoping to produce 10,000 cases within 2 years. For now their Gris (~$16-17) is a fabulous melon loaded summer sipper, while their 2007 Gewurztraminer is lychee, floral and perfume with a touch of spiciness – very good for such a young winery – and it’s all made from county fruit.

Product of the Show …
I never would have pegged myself as a Limoncello fan, but the l’Alambicco Limoncello is something altogether different. In these days of all natural ingredients you don’t get much simpler or natural than lemon rinds, sugar and alcohol. This beauty is a great mixer or all on it’s own. Tart lemon nose is followed up with the same in the mouth, although you expect more mouth pucker it somehow keeps it sweet with bite. The secret, says the producer, is “using the rinds instead of lemon juice”. It’s thick and has great mouth presence with no alcohol taste, just pure lemons – great for making spiked lemonade in the summer. The thickness might be derived from the molasses alcohol, which, according to the producer, “is the best quality no taste alcohol” he has found – allowing the lemon’s flavour to shine through. This should retail for about $18 if the LCBO is smart enough to bring it into the market.

Another interesting product was Zabov, a blend of sugar, milk, eggs, Jamaican rum and “secret ingredients” – this thick beverage had the taste of juiced up egg nog and was served up in a dark chocolate cup.

Label of the Show …
I would have expected the Paternoster Giuv organic wine to have come from Argentina by looking at the seductive Latin dancers on the red label, but this pleasant sipper has it’s origins in Italy. The same producer makes Synthesi, a wine made with Aglianico del Vulture (Aglianico grown in the volcanic soil of the region) this wine will be in Vintages at about $20 a bottle – nice cherry in the mouth with a mineral and herb finish which it get from the soil in which it is grown.

More Italian Wine …
Coming soon to Vintages will be the San Filippo Staffato (~$30-35) a blend of 60% Sangiovese/30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot … good red and black fruit, chocolate and a rich tannin punch.

I’ve Been Looking a Long Time …
Each show, for the past 5 years, I have been trying to re-find some Honey Garlic pepperettes that sparked my taste buds many moons ago. I thought I found them a couple of years ago through a Niagara deli, but they seems to have gone belly up (as far as I can tell) … Now comes Imperial Deli in Vaughan Mills, with their delicious version of this tasty treat. Yum.

Chocolate …
Speaking of yum, have you ever been to a chocolate party, complete with a tasting of high quality chocolate? I’m not talking about those fondue fountain thingies – I mean real chocolate. Well Tracey Edelist seems to have stumbled onto an awesome occupation; she holds gourmet chocolate tasting events. Currently she does tastings all over Toronto for both corporate and private clients … her tastings include pure French and Italian real cacao bean chocolate – to find out more visit www.atasteforchocolate.com and don’t forget to invite me to the event, I’m dying to try this one.

Before Leaving …
As I was heading out the door of this year’s show, I ran into the Godfather of New York and New Zealand wine, Robert Ketchin, who took me through a tasting of each region. Raphael, of Long Island, seems to be making some of the best wines in New York State, while I also learned plenty of grape, wine and regional geek stuff that Robert has locked in his head. Then over to New Zealand where a Sauvignon Blanc flight was on the menu … look for the prices of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to be more affordable this summer, with plenty of good ones under $15, including my personal favourite, Brancott, as well as Monkey Bay and Whitehall. Also look for Babich and Villa Maria, which cost a buck more but are well worth it. Remember these wines are made for early enjoyment and summer sipping, so be sure to lock down a deck, dock, patio or boat to really enjoy these wines.

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